​Fall Island Cruise 2025 - Leg 2

We’ve anchored in Wescott’s protected, muddy-bottomed, 18-20 feet of water a dozen times.  But always curious how Jomo fares while we sleep, I did a final check on the chartplotter’s track record and saw the standard waffling around one expects with mild tidal changes.  The northwest end of San Juan Island has got it going (Roche, English H.) but we decided to explore another potentially abandoned destination for day two, Stuart Island.  After a hot cup of jomoke and a weather update, we weighed anchor and enjoyed a leisurely sail across Spieden Channel.  A noticeable current pushed us east, gently gliding Jomo towards Spieden Island and, eventually, between the kelp laden Center Reef and its neighbor, Sentinel Reef.  The Admiral questioned my navigation, as usual.  My reply, as usual, was “I want to get closer”  (the Admiral never likes that answer). “Closer, why?”, she replies.  “To spot the descendants of the non-native deer and sheep game hunters stocked on the privately owned island back in the 1980’s.” I said, sounding a bit like Encyclopedia Brown.  But more to the point, this somewhat recent wildlife experiment was intriguing, and reminded me of the intrusive, feral pigs and goats we frequented sailing and hiking around the Channel Islands off the southern California coast, first stocked by the Spanish explorers in the 1600’s and later by local ranchers in the 1800’s.  

As we left “Safari Island” behind, the breeze filled in, doubling Jomo’s speed from the 3 to 6 knots.  Frankly, I wasn’t in any hurry to end our pleasant day-sail towards Stuart.  But, too soon, in my opinion, we found ourselves tacking up Reid Harbor which was, as we now clearly saw, vacant and all to ourselves.  I squeezed out two more tacks (to the Admiral’s annoyance ;), dropped sails and turned on the pesky motor.  For the next few minutes, Erika and I considered our multitude of completely uninhabited mooring choices.  Part of Washington’s State Marine Parks, Reid offers 13 mooring balls and 192 linear feet of dock space.  If you would rather anchor at no charge, there is ample space just outside the mooring field, in 25-30 feet.  Also, Stuart’s Reid Harbor is home to one of the many Cascadia Marine Trail sites dotted throughout the Puget Sound every 5-8 nautical miles.  If you are a kayak, canoe or other beach able, non-motorized enthusiast, check out https://www.wwta.org/water-trails/cascadia-marine-trails.  After confirming the water depth of the closest dock to shore would be adequate for the next 24 hours (Jomo drafts 9 ft.), we sidled up and secured our bow and stern line.  It was very convenient and, because it was October, ALL ours.  Or was it?   Standing on the empty dock, enjoying the tranquil surroundings, I was overcome with a rotting, pungent odor.  Hmm, it normally takes more than a trouble-free day sail for me to start smelling like a pirate.  Looking below the metal grates, I spied an abundance of crab carcasses and excreta adorning the black dock floats.  I looked over at the family of river otters lounging on the adjacent boat-free dock and gave ‘em all a cynical, smirky “thanks guys” look.  They responded with a cute head titled “you’re welcome”.  I apologized with a quick wave for temporarily using their kitchen slash bathroom as a boat dock, and proceeded to use half our fresh water reserves (it was worth it) to spray off the stinky rubbish.  With the domestic duties done, we pumped up our 10 foot inflatable dinghy, grabbed our daypack, and rowed to the shore-side dock/ trailhead that leads to either Prevost Harbor (picture) or Turn Point.  Prevost, is only a stones throw from Reid, so we usually add the popular 1 mile walk (picture) to the School House/museum (c. 1904), or continue another 2 miles to Turn Point Lighthouse (c. 1936).  The trail is popular because it is relatively short, scenic, with two small museums.  The lighthouse museum is only open July-September but don’t let that stop you from enjoying a walk out to the point.  The self-guided School House Museum is open all year.  The entire island was private until 1952, when the Washington State Parks Commission purchased 93 acres from relatives of an original 19th century homesteader.  Kudos to the WSPC, as well as the Washington Water Trail Association (WWTA), boats of all sizes now have access, albeit limited, to this charming piece of the PNW.        

Our brief stay on the island wrapped up with the inevitable stop at the Treasure Chest, a unique outdoor souvenir cart stocked full of t-shirts, hats, and post cards (picture above right) Operating since the 1980’s, the island family business now includes the option to pay online. Just when you thought shopping in the woods couldn’t get any easier.  Back on Jomo we cooked kabobs on the BBQ and ate among the silence of early autumn in Reid Harbor. Okay everyone, deep breath in… 3,2,1…and release.  Later that evening I was soothed to sleep by the swooshing sound my neighbors made as they swam back and forth along Jomo’s waterline and underbelly.   Guys, I get it, you will have this place all to yourselves by morning. Goodnight, hope to see you next year. Stay tuned for leg 3.

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